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Day 9: The Wall, The Banquet

This morning is our trip to the Great Wall. It is indeed a wonder of the world!

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We travel about an hour by bus to Mutianyu for entrance – with good views of the outer rings of Beijing and the countryside as we go. It’s farther from Beijing than other access points, but I think the Wall is less crowded and less touristy here.

 

 

 

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I also love the cable car to the top which makes the full Wall and its views accessible for anyone who can’t (or prefers not to) climb. Students enjoy the Chinese equivalent of an alpine slide down one steep segment of the Wall. I prefer my toboggan on snow and without someone, sitting on a little metal disk, coming down fast behind me.

 

 

We lunch after a few hours at the Wall at a small local restaurant in the town, interestingly named the School House Restaurant, and then head back to Beijing for a free afternoon that everyone has earned.

Those interested can join me on an informal shopping trip to the Pearl Market. We’ll see pearls, pearls, and more pearls in little shop after shop after shop on floors and floors of the market – and everything else Chinese for sale that you could imagine: silks, scarves, purses, luggage, toys, clothing, fabrics, electronics, linens, tableware, teapots, souvenirs of all kind, and more. Prices are great for those willing to haggle because there’s so much obvious competition. Talk about market economics in action.

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The evening – and the residency – ends with a huge farewell Tibetan banquet, complete with dancing, passing of the white scarves, ethnic entertainment (with a contemporary twist), and a carefully-selected range of interesting Tibetan dishes.

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Few will have eaten any of these delicacies, but there will be plenty for even the non-adventurous. But at this point in the trip, the non-adventurous are fewer in number than when we arrived. Yak butter tea, anyone?

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Day 8: School is Out

Our good colleagues in Beijing, Patrick Ma and Stephen De Pretre, have agreed to meet with us on Saturday morning. 謝謝 (thank you)!

Patrick helps us make sense of the rapidly evolving legal environment and intellectual property issues in China. Huge!

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Stephen brings diverse and much experience across China, as well as the reflective eye of an ex-pat to discussions of labor markets and HR management in Greater China.

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Bell rings.  School is out!

We’ll lunch at the hotel, get on our walking shoes, and see some of the sights in Beijing.

Of course, the Forbidden City, 

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Tiananmen Square and the area around Mao’s tomb,

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and all the people in China who have travelled to see the same historic sights.

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Internal travel is now possible and huge with the rising prosperity and standard of living afforded everyone in China because of its current capitalist-socialist economy.

In 1978, then Premier Deng Xiaoping launched a market economy in China while maintaining the Communist Party with the famous statement: “Let some get rich first, so that others can get rich later.”  It’s happening. 

China boasts a rapidly increasing number of multi-millionaires, and one out of every 1,700 people in the country has a wealth of 10 million yuan (divide by 7 for U.S. Dollars). Compare that to one in 100 in the U. S.owning $10 million (stats from the China Daily). It’s a new day in China!

Now that we are savvy about ethnic diversity in China, people watching also takes on new meaning.

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For many Chinese from the far out provinces, we may well be the first group of Westerners they have ever seen. In past years, people have curiously wanted to touch blonde hair, stand next to our tallest men, and study and touch our clothes. Hey, we’re the ones who look really different!

 

 

 

The evening is one of my favorite parts of the trip. We attend a Chinese music concert at the stunning, acoustically wonderful, new Beijing National Concert Hall.

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The Hall is surrounded by a reflection pool and has an interesting, below-the-water, underground entrance. Lighting at night in breathtaking, complementing the night lighting at the near-by Forbidden City.  China is beautiful in so many ways!

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So far, we’ve been learning about China by reading, seeing, doing, tasting and eating, smelling, touching, watching, and asking our experts lots of questions. Now we have opportunity to learn something powerful about China’s soul through its music and musical heritage.

Sounds will be different and so will many instruments. We’re ready for the experience. Bring it on!

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Day 7: Consumer Behavior

We’re starting to adjust to the time difference – and many of us are no longer waking up at 4:00 am (which is 5:00 pm Kansas City). But the pace and the constant learning begin to take their toll about this time in the trip.

Cravings for Starbucks (usually right down the street from wherever we are) and McDonald’s (findable, but not as close as the KCF on every corner) multiply for me.  Decaf mocha latte vente skim, 謝謝 [xièxiè (pronounced like a clipped shay-shay) – thank you].

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We have a day and a half left in the classroom – and some of our historic best speakers and sessions.

Today, it’s exploring consumer behavior and trends with the Beijing head of the big PR firm Burson Marsteller. Then it’s a panel of senior corporate leaders exploring future economic outlooks for China.

OK, let me brag for a second – and this has been confirmed by our partner ISP (International Study Program in Czechoslovakia) who works with EMBA programs across the globe and who helps us set up and coordinate our international residency.

Be proud, Bloch Executive MBAs – and the families and friends who support and encourage them back home. This international residency is one of the best designed, integrated, multi-level, learning experiences in the industry.  We may come home pooped; but we’ll also be much, much smarter about China, the world, our leadership, ourselves, and our responsibilities as global citizens. The world has become a lot smaller from the experience.

This afternoon is for students’ individual interviews and meetings with companies and executives for their China projects, just as they did in Shanghai – and which now seems like weeks ago. But it’s all different this time. Students are more comfortable, flexible, confident, and in control. Nice!  

Me, I’m ready to chill. Trip is winding toward the close: a few more class sessions and then some wonderful cultural events to help us decompress and integrate. Have I had enough foot massages yet?

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Day 6: Out of the Big Cities

Spending time in the two major, big cities of China gives a distorted view of the country and of its economic development. This year, our Executive MBAs are venturing out.

We travel by train today to Tianjin: smaller scale, more industrial. A good example of how the economic boom sweeping China is rapidly spreading: a rising tide does lift all boats.

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We were warned in planning that we couldn’t get the kind of nice motor coaches (tour buses) used elsewhere in our travels; that we’d find a different dialect, ethic composition (Hui), and cuisine in the city despite its closeness to Beijing; and everything would be a little plainer. I was thrilled. This is exactly what we need to experience.

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China has great diversity in its population. The majority of Chinese are Han; but in a country of 1.3 billion people, there are still a lot of Chinese who are not.

 

Here’s a visual feel for the magnitude of the ethnic differences. I think you’ll be surprised. Take a look and study the faces.  http://personal.inet.fi/koti/chayangshu/56national.html 

A big shock to first time Western visitors to China is that all Chinese people don’t look alike – and that many look a whole lot more like us (and our ethnic ancestors) than they do our Chinese stereotypes.

We ethnocentric Westerners also tend to think all Chinese speak the same Chinese language. Not true. China has 36 officially recognized ethnic groups with their own cultures, religion, traditions, languages, and distinctive facial and physical features – and beyond the official count, there are many other sub-cultures.  That makes communication and planning within China difficult and complex.

Imagine what it would be like if people in Chicago, LA, and New York City couldn’t easily communicate with each other. That’s what we are talking about – but, ever the professor, I digress. Back to Tianjin.

By our standards, Tianjin is still a big city (11.9 million people) and China’s 4th largest; but not by comparison to Shanghai (China’s largest with 18.9 million) or Beijing (its historic capital in second place with 17.4 million).

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And like other cities in China, Tianjin has (and continues to build) beautiful structures with amazing aesthetic appeal. For example, their Olympic stadium

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We return to Beijing by train in the evening – and to the comfort of our hotel – after visits to a large multi-national; the “internationally active domestic company,” Lights Medical Manufacture; and an ethnic lunch.

Our local planner suggests an informal Beijing evening of karaoke or a visit to the night market at Wafuging near our hotel for a different taste (literally) of China. (Yes, those are scorpions on a stick, along with other tasty options.)

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I suggest bed!

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Day 5: Hello Beijing

This is a travel day: goodbye Shanghai, hello Beijing.

Early morning up and out – and a farewell to the Shanghai breakfast buffet that has been my morning pleasure. The kitchen opened early to feed us before we head off.

Service is big in China – after all, everything in China still runs to some degree on guanxi (relationships of reciprocity and exchange). Our fourth year in this hotel: we’re building guanxi.

The trip to the airport is on the maglev train, a quiet and comfortable magnetic levitation train that operates through Shanghai. It’ll cut the time of the trip by 75% as compared to the bus in on day one. The maglev is the first commercial high-speed line in the world, with test speeds clocked at more than 300 mph.

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We fly to Beijing, drop our bags, change clothes, grab lunch, and head off to a company visit. Beijing traffic is amazing. Take a read of Peter Hessler’s Country Driving —my favorite of his books on China that I’ve talked about in a past blog – for an accurate and entertaining read why.

Beijing adds 2100 new cars a day to its roads, and a thousand plus people get a first driver’s license in the city every day. A car is a new symbol of affluence and rising social status in China. Envision a country where 1.3 million people are learning to drive for the first time – most not having seen their parents drive or even having ridden much in autos. Get the picture of gridlock?  These should help fuel your imagination. 

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Things in China are ever changing, and staying flexible and open – a key leadership skill for everyone – is essential. We’re scheduled to visit ABB, but there may be a shift. Speakers and company visits have all been great – and I’m confident wherever we land will be amazing.

ABB is a Chinese-Swiss conglomerate and a leader in power and automation technologies that reduce environmental impact. We’ll explore the challenges of a multi-national setting up operations in China and sustainability issues, if all turns out as planned.

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Tonight, those who choose are measured for their custom suits, shirts, or other choices. June’s the young entrepreneur tailor who made us all look fabulous last year.

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She and her partner Ding and their cadre of seamstresses and seamsters plan to work their magic again this year, even though we have doubled our student numbers and are bringing some Midwest fashionistas with large, empty suitcases to fill. Learn more about D & J Tailors at http://www.tailorbeijing.com/about.php

I loved the silk Chinese jacket they custom-made for me last year. I am bringing pictures to inform some designs for this year’s purchases.

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Day 4: Ascending to Global Citizenship

This is the day that gives me some breathing space: a chance for a quiet afternoon in Shanghai – is that an oxymoron? – with our Executive Coach (who is travelling with us), maybe even a massage and a calorie splurge with dinner at M on the Bund. This, however, is the most stressful day for the EMBAs. Send them your love! 

We start as usual with class time and two fabulous instructors.

Bill Dodson (author, entrepreneur, consultant, and business principal, and writer of the http://thisischinablog.com ) brings his unique perspective on how to do business in China with exploration of the impact of cultural differences on business partnerships and opportunities. Check out his recent book to learn more.

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After a break for tea – this is China, after all – we probe the changing consumer markets with Paul French, prolific author and Founder and Publishing & Marketing Director of Access Asia. His recent book, Fat China, says as much about the dangers of Western notions of affluence as it does about China today.   

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Lunch together at the hotel is a kumbayah moment for the cohort, after which everyone goes off alone to do their individual interviews or site visits for their China projects.

Students have been working on these projects (at least in their minds) since last summer, and have been preparing for this moment of truth.

No matter how prepared, there’s always that last minute feeling of panic, heading off alone in a taxi or on the subway in a country where you can’t even fake that you know the language by giving your English a bit of an accent as you can in romance language countries.

Here’s where the rubber meets the road – a moment of executive growth and rise to full global citizenship.

Prediction: The meetings will go well, they always do. People will navigate a place as complex as China, even though they are not sure they can. Language won’t be easy, but they’ll make it work. And having conquered the fear of the unknown through their skill and flexibility (see past blogs on the topic of fear of differences and the unknown!), the students will be stronger leaders and different people.

We promise transformation in the Bloch Executive MBA – and this is one of the learning moments where we see the fruits of that transformation in action.

There will be another solo afternoon of interviews and site visits in Beijing for students, but this is the first – and the first is always the hardest.

I’m proud of everyone. You should be too. It ain’t easy – but people make it so and are better for having done that. They model professional development at its best.

Now, will I have the Chickpea Pancake served with Anchoiade & Tapenade, Eggplant caviar, and peppery Roquette or the Twice cooked, (so juicy and crispy) Pigeon served with ‘boudin noir’ and harissa at M on the Bund??? 

A toast to our students (and the beautiful view) while I decide.

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Day 3: Classes Begin

Monday begins our regular class day schedule, and we have a long day of varied and rich experiences.

We start with a trip to the U.S. Commercial Service offices for an overview of the Chinese economy and business environment.

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The session will put our company speakers and visits in perspective during our stay in China, but knowing people here and about the Service is also a must for anyone wanting to do business of any kind in China. Uncle Sam is active here and ready to provide American businesses with support of all kind – and we want our students to know about those and how to access them!  The Bloch Executive MBA is all about networking, knowledge, and empowerment.

We stay at the offices and welcome the head of Capital Eight, a Shanghai-based global investment banking firm specializing in mergers and acquisitions, to update us on financial markets and the banking environment in China. 

That’s followed by a quick lunch at a Western-type salad and sandwich shop in the neighborhood – like our Ingredients back in Kansas City – that’s very popular with locals and expats alike. Then it’s back on the bus and out to Boeing Shanghai Aviation Services where we’ll meet with the CFO and tour the facilities. See, we really are studying international management.

With no rest for the jetlagged, we’ll end the night at the Shanghai Circus World, another of the city’s distinctive buildings, after a quick dinner in the neighborhood to see the famed Shanghai acrobats.

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Chinese acrobatics has a long history and is an art form of which the Chinese are quite proud. Acrobatics is the collective name for a wide variety of stunts, classical dances, and feats, some of which date back to the variety shows popular during the Han Dynasty in the early 200’s AD.

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There will be heavy eyelids in the bus on our way back to the hotel – and it’s only the first day of classes.

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Day 2: Enhanced Executive Presence

On Sunday morning China time, my favorite part of our hotel in Shanghai. the breakfast buffet.  There are stations with multi-cultural selections and chefs: Chinese, American, Japanese, Muslim, Eastern and Western European, plus things like an omelet bar, cereal bar, fresh fruit bar, and more.  Food is plentiful and freshly made – hand-pulled Muslim noodles (see below) in a tasty broth are nice for jet lagged stomachs.  I prefer the sushi and tropical fruit.

Student fears of going hungry are allayed. No one will starve!  Quite the contrary. We’ll continue the Bloch Executive MBA tradition of eating our way to enhanced executive presence, now taking it to the global level.

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Our other plans for today:

We’ll begin our exploration of Shanghai with a walk from the hotel to the Yu Yuan Garden which dates back to the Ming Dynasty in the 1500’s. That will be followed by a Chinese tea tasting at a nearby tea house from the same era.

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Our travels through local neighborhoods to the ancient Garden that is still very popular with local folks – and our encounters with a few of the 1.3 billion fake Rolex salespeople working the streets in the shops’ area surrounding the Garden – provide a vivid picture of the contrasts between old and new that live side-by-side in China today.

 

 

We’ll then board a bus and tour the city, with a stop at the Jade Buddha temple. The temple is also a working Buddhist monastery – interesting in a country where politics has long controlled religion, eh?

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There will be shopping in the afternoon for those still rarin’ to go – and a chance to practice our negotiation skills. Not for the faint of heart!  We’ve got out notes for how to play out this enjoyable and everyday theater of market economics. I’m looking for a special kind of jacket for my son.  

We’ll end the evening with a welcome dinner on the Bund. Our pre-dinner speaker is local historian Peter Hibbard, author of the Odyssey Guide to Shanghai, Bund Shanghai, and others to provide a local perspective on Shanghai, past and present.

The Bund is the historic old colonial banking area that borders the Huangpu River running through the city.

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It is also the best place to view the skyscrapers of modern Shanghai by night that are located across the river. Clear weather provides a breathtaking view.

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Day 1: Hello Shanghai

The Bloch Executive MBA Class of 2011 has arrived in Shanghai: left on Friday morning from Kansas City and arrived in Shanghai Saturday, thanks to the International dateline and time zone differences.

The Pudong Airport is sleek and modern – and an immediate reminder that this is not your grandfather’s or grandmother’s China.   

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Our hotel is pretty glamorous and contemporary, too. It’s allayed the fears of weary EMBA travelers who really weren’t sure what they’d find half-way around the world. (Take a peak at the link, family and friends, in case your loved ones complain about how hard we worked them in the classroom while abroad!  True, the schedule is packed come Monday morning, but they are not roughing it in the hutong!)

Shanghai is a happening place, and I love its energy and cosmopolitan feel.

The architecture is extraordinary by day, and even more so at night. Shanghai is one of the great skyscraper cities of the modern era, and with all the current construction is on track to claim the title of the world’s #1 skyscraper town.  Simply amazing!

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After unpacking – and resisting the desire for a nap that would totally blow our ability to adjust to the 13 hour time difference – we’ll venture out for a light supper before turning in early.

Jet lag is a reality, and everyone is feeling it to some degree.

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A Special Series: Travel With Us Through China

Today begins a special series in this blog, as a colleague and I set off for our international immersion residency in China with 40 Executive MBA students.

For the next ten days, you’ll see where we are going each day, what we’re doing, what we are learning, and what this international immersion residency is really all about.

In the process, you’ll get to see some of China (albeit through pictures) and learn something important about China today and about good global leadership. (I’ll share a few teaching points along the way about living in a diverse world that are relevant beyond China, too.) 

So join us and follow our travels.

This is the culminating learning experience in the final semester of our Executive MBA program. It’s also a transformational life experience that will make our students stronger and more effective global leaders. By following us each day, you’ll understand why.

This series was conceived for three specific purposes – although its possibilities for learning are broader.

We wanted families, friends, and significant others back home to know what was happening for their loved ones, to feel connected, and to learn about China, too. Executive MBA programs are intense, compressed learning experiences for full time working professionals; and we appreciate the support and sacrifices  made by those at home that have enabled our students to concentrate on their studies.

This series is a concrete expression of our appreciation to the important others who have supported our students over the past two years. We’ve noticed, and we thank you.

We wanted to give first year students and new recruits to our program a taste of what they’ll be doing next year this time. Immersion study and China travel are difficult to envision. These posts will reduce the human tendency to worry about the unknown.

Finally, we wanted our corporate sponsors, local organizations who hire our students, and our students’ current bosses and colleagues to get a grounded feel for the quality of our degree program – and why our immersion residencies are our competitive advantage. They have a new China expert in their midst. In today’s world, that’s important.

NOTE: To make sure China’s internet firewalls and policy fluctuations don’t block the ability for daily posts – as they did last year or as recent g-mail blocks made us fear they might this – posts for the next 10 days have been drafted so that they can be sent from here (based on the learning agenda and itinerary of the day) or updated and uploaded on the ground from China.

May this not become a 30 Rock experience where what you read bears little resemblance to what unfolds!

We have a 6:00 am departure from Kansas City International Airport. Our Executive MBAs have been preparing for this trip all year, including the development of individual China projects as independent studies to make themselves experts in their organizations or industries on a relevant area.

They have read, studied, listened, questioned, and met with those here who know international business and China today. They have developed networks and colleagues in China through the wonders of technology, and will soon have opportunities to complete the final phase of their efforts.

Let’s the journey and the deep learning begin. Onward!

2008 China 057